Argus Model A2B

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Sticking with the theme of going over variations of cameras, this post will be looking at the fourth variation of the Argus A, this post will be looking at the Argus Model A2B.

I already went through the history of the Argus company in my Argus C2 post and the history of the Argus A series in my Argus A post.

Being part of the Argus’ A series, the Argus A2B was a cheaper alternative to Kodak’s Retina series (Grey 2011).

Some examples from Kodak's Retina camera series.
Image Source:
https://www.leitz-auction.com/media/c7/70/ec/1705308799/12231_1.jpg

The A2B, like the A, has different versions, three to be exact and they are also classified as prewar A2B or postwar A2B. 

First version of the Argus A2B. Image Source:
https://i0.wp.com/c4.staticflickr.com/8/7431/27624244411_bf0031fa35_c.jpg?ssl=1

Second version of the Argus A2B. Image Source:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/proxy/Y_0Ah1-cAEoEQJ5rQlxoEfRDuwJeyQNhu2VJjS65rpDEv5BdIOtOs8bf2GOEsEvUE-h6Fu_8Bxpwb0ECPwR-XX3B0GRtD-KoFr9YK0U6oGnv8_li5g

According to Grey (2011 & 2016), it gives two methods on how to tell the difference between prewar and postwar A2B. One, which is unconfirmed, is that prewar A2Bs had a shutter speed that went up to 1/2000 second and the postwar A2B models only went up to 1/150 second (2011).

The second method to tell if it is pre- or postwar is to see the lens is coated. Because according to Grey (2016), “…Some postwar A2Bs even featured a coated lens.” And if we apply these to tell-tale signs to the A2B in this post, we can see that it is a postwar A2B camera.

Like the last post (the Brownie Movie Camera II 2.7), I will be comparing this camera to the camera that it is based off of, this being the Argus Model A.

So, let us get into it!

The Argus Model A2B was released in 1939-1950 and is the same as the Model A, except this camera came with a “…Built-in Extinction Meter and Exposure Calculator…” (Argus Collectors Group). The camera is mostly made from plastic, most likely Bakelite. It has a weight of 430g and a size of 120 x 68 x 54 or 66 with lens extended (Art Deco Cameras 2020).

Now time for a closer look. Starting with the front-

The lens-

The Model A2B has an Anastigmat 50mm f/4.5 coated lens. Let’s break down what this means.

I already went through what Anastigmat lenses are in my Agfa Billy Record 7.7 Pocket Camera post and Argus C2 post. And in my Polaroid SX-70 post what it means when a lens is coated. And then finally the 50mm is its focal length and because it only has the 50mm indication that means this camera has a fixed focus lens (Elek 2015), similar to the Olympus OM30, and the f/4.5 is its maximum aperture opening.

The A2B, like the A, can take lens adapters. On the Argus A2Bs there are threads where a portrait adapter can be screwed in. But this camera, a postwar A2B, is a bit different, for one can unscrew the lens to reveal more threads where other adapters and lenses can go.

Another thing that the A2B has in common with the A, is that the A2B also has a “…collapsible lens barrel, which controls focusing…” (Grey 2016). The lens is spring loaded (Art Deco Cameras 2020), and is extended by turning the barrel right and lose from the tabs that hold it in place, then it is turned left to lock it in place and then when collapsing it the user just pushes the barrel in and right. Then push it in towards the body and then to the left to lock it in place with the tabs (Elek 2015).

This extend and collapsible “quirk” (Grey 2016), allows for two different focus range settings: 18 feet to infinity in the collapsed position and 6-18 feet when extended (Art Deco Cameras 2020).

On the side of the lens is the shutter/exposure lever, also called a “plunger-style button” (Grey 2016). This camera uses a leaf shutter system known as a “Wollensak Alphax leaf shutter” (Grey 2011).

Which according to Wollensak’s care and operation manual is a “…photographic shutter is a highly precise instrument that has been built to the same exacting tolerance as a fine watch…” and is “…An accurately fitted train of watch gears and pinions, working in connection with a series of levers and carefully tempered springs, assure uniform and properly timed exposures-the essence of good and well-timed negatives. In designing the Alphax Shutter, every consideration was given to the fact that instruments of this type are sometimes subjected to continuous and often, hard usage…” (Pacific Rim Camera).

Inner workings of an Alpax Shutter. Image Source:
https://pheugo.com/cameras/alphax/alphax4.jpg

But the user should use the shutter with care. Because as the manual (Pacific Rim Camera) goes on to state that: “It, nevertheless, is a sensitive instrument, and should be handled carefully, the same as any valuable timepiece.” This is because it is so sensitive that according to Mitchell (2008) it: “…should not submerge the entire shutter or flood it with solvent. The shutter blades are not made of metal and can swell if they get wet.”

Then underneath the plunger-style shutter button is the cable release socket.

 

On the barrel above the lens are the shutter speed settings, which have a T and B setting, that holds the shutter open for as long as the button is held down (in B setting) or until the button is pressed again to close it (in the T setting). Then there are the different speeds which are 1/25, 1/50, 1/100 and 1/150 second.

Then under the lens is the f/stop settings: 4.5, 6.3, 7.9, 12 and 18. And just like the Argus A, the aperture petals are behind the shutter.

On top-

We have the same components as the Model A. There is the film advance knob.

Then there is the film frame counter that is connected to the single film frame sprocket and the film spacing and release button, which should be held down when advancing or rewinding the film.

Then finally the one thing, that separates it from the Model A, the  eye level optical viewfinder (like the Falcon F), but accompanying the viewfinder is the Extinction Meter or a Sunny 16 Exposure Calculator (Art Deco Cameras 2020). 

Usually, the extinction meter comes with a bridge or slider, which this camera is unfortunately missing.

Argus A2B example of an extinction meter with a bridge/slider.
Image Source:
https://www.collection-appareils.fr/argus/images/argus_A2B_detail.jpg

“…through them, looking for the darkest one that still lets you see light, and then set the aperture and shutter speed according to an index atop the camera…” (Grey 2011).

This meter has a series of windows that contain small pieces of celluloid (Art Deco Cameras 2020) or grey filters (Grey 2011) and each window has a different opacity. The user then looks through these windows “…towards the scene and shift the bridge to the one where light is just visible…” (Art Deco Cameras 2020) and while the user peers “…through them, looking for the darkest one that still lets you see light, and then set the aperture and shutter speed according to an index atop the camera…” (Grey 2011).

On the bottom-

Is the rewind knob, (which can be pulled out to help insert and hold the film cartridge) and the tripod/strap socket.

Then on the sides, like the Model A, is the hook and pressure plate that holds the film compartment cover in place.

Speaking of which…

The back of the camera-

Is the film compartment cover, complete with pull-out tab.

The cover also has, like all Argus A cameras, except for the Argus AF (Halgand 2024), has the iconic geometric design.

Argus A series geometric design. Image Source:
http://www.artdecocameras.com/images/argus/a2b-pre-war/geometric-back.jpg

But as one can see this camera’s design is covered by a sticker, that most likely came with the camera. This sticker shows the right shutter speed that should be used for which weather condition and f/stop, as well as the exposure values.

This sticker can also be a part of the Sunny 16 rule. A method used when the user doesn’t want to use the extinction meter (Art Deco Cameras 2020).

Sunny 16 guide. Image Source:
http://www.artdecocameras.com/cameras/argus/a2b-pre-war/

The cover comes off completely and also has or had a piece of foam that held the film cartridge in place (Elek 2015).

Foam piece to hold film in place. Image Source:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=jKlK0NPAi4s

And then there is the pressure plate that holds the film down and flat (Elek 2015).

 

Pressure Plate to hold film frame in place. Image Source:
https://i.etsystatic.com/9129297/r/il/89f4e0/1818348340/il_570xN.1818348340_4r9b.jpg

Then there is lastly the film compartment, which is exactly the same as the Model A. A 35mm film type, which is fed from right to left instead of left to right. It also takes image sizes of 36x24mm (Art Deco Cameras 2020). The only difference is that the take-up spool is plastic and not metal.

To learn how film works please see my 200 Colorplus post for more information.

And that is that. Not much of a difference between the A2B and the A, except for the shutter speed and the meter. But like the Model A, the Argus Model A2B is still a beautiful piece of photography ingenuity.

This camera is also similar to the Falcon F, but the Falcon is a bit more advanced and unlike the Model A and the Falcon F, the Argus Model A2B leans more towards the art deco style than the steampunk style. According to Art Deco Cameras (2020): “It's curvilinear design, horizontal stripes and restrained decoration give it an Art Deco Streamline Moderne character.”

I like the simple black and white colour scheme, but I still prefer the look of the Argus A, but I still think the Falcon F did it better.

The A2B is a simple and easy to use camera, I would recommend this camera for those who want to venture into the 35mm world. It is small and easy to pack. But this wouldn’t be the first camera I would recommend for film beginners, for that I would rather recommended that 35mm amateurs use the easier point-and-shoot cameras, like the Sinpo PQ-3, the Praktica Sport AF or the Sounex YN9000. 

What do you think? Do you agree that the Falcon F looks better? Do you agree that new comers to the film world should start with a point-and-shoot? Or should they just jump in with the Argus A and A2B? And do you think I should’ve included the awful Solar DX-3 point-and-shoot in my recommendation? Let me know in the comments.

And as always, thank you for making it to the end and I hope you enjoyed this as much as I did researching it.

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List of sources:

Argus Collectors Group. Argus "A" Series Cameras. https://www.arguscg.org/reference/a.shtml

Art Deco Cameras. 2020. Argus A2B Pre-war. http://www.artdecocameras.com/cameras/argus/a2b-pre-war/

Elek, M. 2015. Argus A2B. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKlK0NPAi4s

Grey, J. 2011. Argus A2B. https://blog.jimgrey.net/2011/10/06/argus-a2b/

Grey, J. 2016. Another Argus A2B. https://blog.jimgrey.net/2016/08/03/another-argus-a2b/

Halgand, S. 2024. Argus A2B. https://www.collection-appareils.fr/x/html/camera-2741-Argus_A2B.html

Mitchell, D. 2008. Alphax Shutter. https://pheugo.com/cameras/index.php?page=alphax#:~:text=The%20Wollensak%20Alphax%20is%20an,the%20shutter%20is%20the%20same.

Pacific Rim Camera. The Care and Operation of THE WOLLENSAK ALPHAX SHUTTER. https://www.pacificrimcamera.com/rl/03193/03193.pdf